Are Vinyl Decks Slippery in the Rain?

Posted on February 22, 2010 by letshaneexplain

Vinyl decks are perfect (and perfectly safe) for the front porch.

Want a true maintenance free solution?  Look to PVC (or Polyvinyl Chloride) decks – they will look fabulous for decades without staining.  You might wonder about the safety factor though – do they become a slippery mess in the rain?

Deck boards today have come a long way.  A flat surface made from plastic definitely poses a safety risk when wet.  Water sitting on top of smooth vinyl is dangerous.   But today’s vinyl decking is manufactured with safety in mind.

Vinyl deck manufacturers use the latest technology to create deck boards that give the look of wood grain.  Grooves, swirls and patterns are embedded right into the PVC and not only look natural, but give homeowners a non-slip surface.  The rough texture of the grain breaks up the moisture and gives your feet a spot to grip.

Even brands without the intentional wood grain look have straight grooves or diamond patterns in them for the same purpose.

PVC deck boards are extremely resistant to mold and mildew growth.  This is good news for cleaning and even better news for safety.  Organics retain water and create a slimy surface – dangerous for deck and stair surfaces.  That possibility is eliminated on today’s vinyl deck boards.

Worried about squeaking and noise created from a vinyl deck?  That issue has been phased out with the extrusion techniques used today.  Deck boards are no longer hollow and shouldn’t let out the infamous squeaks under every footstep.

Quality manufacturers of vinyl decking work hard to produce products that are extremely safe, highly durable and look attractive in your yard.  Discover the freedom of a vinyl deck today.

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Do I Need to Wash My Composite Deck?

Posted on February 8, 2010 by letshaneexplain

Composite materials are highly touted as maintenance free.  But don’t be fooled – you still need to clean them.  Just like any surface, especially one that is exposed to the elements, composite decking requires regular cleaning.

Why?  If you leave dirt, debris, tannins or whatever on the material, the appearance will be downgraded significantly over time.  It doesn’t mean that your composite will rot (the plastic fibers make that next to impossible).  But you will lose some color, finish and general aesthetics.

Dirt and debris can be cleaned with a hose, with or without soap and using a soft brush (like a shop broom) if necessary.  Check your manufacturer’s instructions before using a pressure washer – often they aren’t recommended or certain limitations are set.  (Trex Composite for instance

Don't forget to clean your composite

states that the use of a pressure washer less than 12” from the deck or set higher than 1,500 psi may damage the product and invalidate the warranty.)

If you spot brown or dark mottled stains on your deck, it is likely tannins leaching out.  Don’t worry; it’s a completely natural process.  The stains can be removed with deck brighteners – cleaners specially formulated with oxalic or phosphoric acid and available from your local deck contractor.  You will need to wet the deck, use a little elbow grease to scrub the cleaner on and then rinse.  You also may need to apply it more than once, depending on the amount of tannins.

For mold and mildew, use a deck wash or cleaner that contains sodium hydrochlorite (bleach) and detergent.  Check your manufacturer to see if they have more specific recommendations.  Keeping the deck surface free of pollen and other debris on a regular basis helps to reduce mold build up.  Shady spots on your deck will grow green faster.

To remove more specific stains like oil, grease or rust, check with your manufacturer.  Never use sand paper on composite decks.

While not completely maintenance free, composite products deliver a consistently beautiful look for years.  Wash them once or twice a year, spot clean when necessary and then relax and enjoy.

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How to Build a Retaining Wall in Your Backyard

Posted on January 27, 2010 by letshaneexplain

Another project with many different applications, it pays to know how to build a retaining wall in wood.
Stone is popular and sturdy for backyard and even commercial use.  You can pick up any number of different styles, sizes and colors at your local building supplies store.  But if you’re looking for a natural, economical product, look no further than Pressure Treated wood.  You can use garden ties, 4×4, 5×5 or 6×6 timbers to build a strong, long lasting and maintenance free retaining wall.  Perfect for around your garden, to level off a sloped yard or to retain soil along your driveway, backyard wood walls are a cinch to build with a little bit of prep and some muscle.

Start with the site preparation.  If you need to excavate, make sure you dig all the way back to the length of any necessary tiebacks (sometimes called deadmen).  Here’s what that means.  If you’re building a wall higher than 18” off the ground, you will need tiebacks – timbers that are incorporated into the face of the wall, but run back into the earth behind the wall (like a “T”).  These help to form a frame 3 to 4 feet back from the wall face and will be covered in back fill or gravel once the wall is completed.  So, if these are necessary, be sure to dig back 3 to 4 feet from the wall placement in order to properly accommodate them.

Although the landscape fabric and rebar are unnecessary, this diagram gives you a pretty good look at the layout of a wood retaining wall.

Lay a base of gravel about 6” thick and tamp it down (you don’t need equipment for this – just make sure it’s packed as well as you can).  This is to ensure your first course will have stability; the gravel won’t wash away as soil would.

Be ABSOLUTELY sure that your bottom layer or course is level.  This is probably the most important step and should be double and triple checked with an actual level (no eyeballing this one).  Remember that your bottom layer is the furthest out, as all subsequent levels will be set back from it in a step pattern.

If your completed retaining wall will be 18” high or less, continue to lay the courses on top of the first, LEVEL layer, placing them ½” back from the front of the timber.

If you’re looking at doing tiebacks, start them at the second layer.  Space them 6 to 8 feet on center and lay them back 3 to 4 feet.  In order to keep these first tiebacks level, put a small timber underneath the back end (like a small “T”) – there’s no need to lay an entire timber there, just scrap pieces will work.  After you’ve laid the tiebacks, connect all of them with a timber across the top.  This will give you a spot to lay the next set of tiebacks – which are placed every second course on the wall.  The tieback system should look like a framed echo of the retaining wall face.

Tie all of the timber together using 10” spikes (if your wall is made of 6×6 timbers) or a spike long enough to go through both.  Space these 16” apart and don’t forget to attach the tiebacks at the wall and on the framework as well.

You will need some drainage in your retaining wall system as well.  Lay a big “O” or drainage tile across the bottom of the wall, behind the first course.  Then backfill with clear gravel to cover the drainage tile.  This will allow the water to run down and into the pipe, which will then direct it away from the wall to prevent heaving and soil erosion.

A wall that’s higher than 18” requires a lot more skill and equipment, not to mention muscle to carry all of that lumber to the site.  Look to hire a professional if you’re not confident.  You don’t want to put all of that effort in just to have the wall sag or fall over, which WILL happen if all of the elements are not done properly.

For anything below 18”, have at it.  With the know-how, some digging, gravel and a few layers of timber, your project will be done perfectly.

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Last chance at the Home Renovation Tax Credit

Posted on January 22, 2010 by letshaneexplain

As of January 31st the doors will be closing on your chance to save some tax. And who doesn’t like to save tax? If you have taken advantage of the federal government’s offer to give you a credit worth up to $1350.00, good for you. If you had great plans to do some backyard improvement, but the weather or time got away from you, you might have one last chance.

As far as the tax credit goes, you can do the installation yourself and the cost of materials, equipment rentals and any applicable permits or licenses are eligible for the credit. Could you build that deck yourself? Or put up that fence you need so much? How about that retaining wall or garden border? You don’t even have to commit to braving the cold, Canadian winter to take advantage of the credit.

Build the deck of your dreams - buy lumber and get your tax credit now

Here’s the loophole (and it’s legit, never fear).

If you can clear up some space in the garage or shed, you can claim the HRTC this way. The law states that you must have taken delivery of the applicable materials by January 31 (and you have to pay for them before then too). How about ordering the bulk of the lumber or materials you will need and storing it away until springtime? That way you are set when the snow melts and you can claim the tax credit legally.

Be sure to band the wood if you can or pack it tightly together. Covering it with a decent weighted tarp will prevent any damage and keep it from drying out too much. If you’ve purchased stone for the retaining wall, stack it carefully to minimize the chance of tipping.

You can even pick up the stain you will need to refinish the deck or fence when the weather gets warmer. Be sure to get enough for the whole project, to make sure the batches match.

Call your local building supplies store to check their stock on what you need. You can even ask if they will throw in an off season discount if you’re feeling really brave, that way you save twice.

Save your receipt (with the delivery date clearly marked) for your tax return. Then start eyeing up the prospects for friends who can help you when spring comes.

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Why custom built sheds are better than prefabs

Posted on January 13, 2010 by letshaneexplain

If you need storage and organization in your backyard, the best options are sheds. But how will you choose between all of the prefab, manufactured styles available at the local Home Improvement store? Look beyond those cookie cutters and consider a custom built shed.

This beautiful custom shed fits nicely into a backyard corner


The first benefit is size and shape. If you buy a prefab model, your choices will be limited to stock (or possibly special order, which usually costs you more). If you have an unusual corner or area of your yard that would be perfect for a shed, you aren’t going to find that shed at the big box store. Ditto if you need an odd size, such as in floor space or height. Maybe you would like something extra tall with rafter space for storage. Or something long and narrow, but still spacious. All of these “outside of the ordinary” needs won’t be met with a prefab.

Enter custom sheds. Built in any shape, size and finish that you need, a custom built shed can do everything for you. It’s usually only limited to your imagination (and budget!).

Another plus of custom sheds is the décor possibility. Want to coordinate your backyard with your home and landscaping? Design a shed with matching (or complimentary) siding and shingles. You can even go as far as windows and doors that work with your home’s existing ones. Arched windows, decorative doors, flower boxes and shutters can all be done with a custom shed. Try getting that from the Home Improvement store.

The cost may cause you to hesitate. Take this into consideration though. A prefab shed will cost you between $1000 – 2000 for a decent size and average quality. A custom built shed will likely run you $2500 and up for a well built sturdy shed (depending on the specifications). What you get out of the deal is the kicker.

Custom built sheds often come with floors that can be permanently mounted in the ground with piers or posts. They are made to weather well and keep everything that you store inside safe and secure. Prefabs can easily blow over or down with a decent storm, possibly damaging what you have inside as well as anything around it.

Custom built sheds are just that, custom. Get exactly what you want for your family. The convenience and usefulness of this is worth the extra cost.

When you weigh the benefits of a custom built shed against the additional cost, you will come out convinced of the only way to bring storage and security into your backyard. Have a uniquely designed, custom built shed installed in your backyard and you’ll enjoy it worry free for years to come.

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Can you save money by installing L.E.D. lights in your deck?

Posted on January 8, 2010 by letshaneexplain

LED LightWhen you are inside in the evening and you need more light to work, converse or just plain relax, you simply flip a switch.  What could be easier?  Bring more hours of enjoyment and better functionality to your exterior living area by installing strategically placed deck and landscape lighting.

There are many different products out on the market with varying sizes, shapes and designs.  There are also many different price tags.  But there is one major difference that you need to pay attention to.

L.E.D. (Light Emitting Diode)-based lighting has risen in popularity in the deck and landscape lighting market.  Unlike the familiar incandescent light bulb which uses a filament, LEDs convert energy into light using a chip similar to a computer’s.  This eliminates much of the energy that the incandescent needs to heat the filament, thus making light.  Another big plus is that by eliminating the need for heat, LEDs are cool to the touch and can be encased in plastic making them much more difficult to break.

LED-based lights also boast extended life spans, varying from 50,000 to 100,000 hours.  The average household will use their deck lighting between 250 – 400 hours per year, which translates into a lifetime of light from an LED system.

All of this advanced technology does demand a higher price tag.  Some LED lights can cost as much as twice that of a comparable incandescent system.  But they will use much less energy over the course of time.  Keep in mind that they both run on the same transformer and wiring system, so there is no cost difference there.

Consider in-lite®, a company that manufactures both an incandescent lighting system and an LED-based system.  The in-lite® Micro-Lite deck lighting system has 3 watt bulbs that come in a few different looks.  The in-lite® LED deck lighting system is 0.5 watt, which uses over 80% less energy.

However, since the LED system costs more initially and the Micro-Lite is a low wattage bulb to begin with, you aren’t truly buying these for the cost savings.  You will pay less for the use of your deck lights, but since exterior light use is much less than interior, the cost savings are not huge.

Maybe the system you are looking at is battery-operated.  In that case, you can generally expect that the LED battery-run system will last over 36 hours before needing a battery change.  This is compared to the incandescent battery needing to be changed as often as every 8 hours.  It is also worth a look to see if the LED system works on fewer batteries, thereby saving you money each time you do replace them.

Another thing to consider is the bulb life.  As we have learned, LEDs last a lifetime.  Incandescent bulbs will need frequent replacement and that maintenance will continually add to the cost of such systems.  Basically, the more lights you have, the more bulbs will need replacing and the closer the cost will come to the initial LED price tag.  Add in the constant savings on your hydro bill and the environmental benefits of LEDs and the winner is clear.

When shopping for deck and landscape lighting, be sure to ask about the LED systems available.  Then do your part to conserve energy while enjoying your backyard.

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How can I prep my deck for winter?

Posted on January 8, 2010 by letshaneexplain

Your deck often serves as an exterior living room during the warm months from spring to fall.  Like your interior rooms, a quick assessment and a tidying will help you to enjoy it more when the snow’s gone.

Whether your deck was installed with Pressure Treated, Cedar wood, Composite or Vinyl material, the surface will benefit from a cleaning at this time of year.  Come to our location in Baden to pick up a good quality cleaner that is designed for your materials.  Also, sweep off the leaves, needles and debris that can accumulate.  If left to get wet and trampled on, vegetation may leave stains on your deck boards.

Look over your patio furniture for any rusting spots, which can leave marks on your deck if left exposed.  Spot repair as you can, and if possible, store your patio furniture away until spring.  If space is an issue, invest in a good quality patio furniture cover.

If your BBQ is portable, consider storing it away as well.  Permanent BBQs can be covered well for protection and longevity.

Empty patio planters and turn them over to prevent them from filling with water and cracking when the freezing temperatures hit.  If you prefer to leave your planters out, it’s a good idea to put spacers between the deck surface and the base of the planter to allow airflow.

Fall is a decent time to stain your wood deck if needed.  Be sure to check the stain can for minimum temperatures and try to time your work with the weather.  Superdeck Stain is a good quality product that requires only one coat, which makes for quicker, easier coverage.

Many areas of your backyard can use a little loving care in the fall and will reward you with more enjoyment and ease come springtime.

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I want a hot tub installed onto my existing deck. Is there anything special I need to know?

Posted on January 8, 2010 by letshaneexplain

One thing to consider when installing a hot tub into an existing decking surface is the amount of extra support you may need. If you have a ground level deck (less than 24” off of the ground), a simple installation procedure can be done. A hole is cut into the deck flooring and the hot tub is fit snugly in. On the ground underneath the deck, the tub itself can sit on patio slabs, a poured concrete pad or another deck surface.

When placing a new hot tub onto an existing deck surface, ensure that you have proper support underneath. Extra beams may be needed and placement of the tub may be limited to a certain area.  For instance, a hot tub may not be placed within 1m of your railing.

Check with your salesman, who will survey your home and let you know any additional requirements Ontario Building Code specifies.  Also ask your hot tub supplier about any extra things you may need for the tub itself, such as a locking cover.

When installed professionally and properly, a hot tub will provide you and your family with plenty of warmth for years to come.

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What the heck is Pressure Treated lumber anyway? Is it safe?

Posted on January 8, 2010 by letshaneexplain

Pressure Treated Wood is simply the industry name for wood that is treated or preserved with chemicals to make it more resistant to rotting, decay and termites.

Heritage Design uses wood treated with A.C.Q. – which is a combination of Alkaline, Copper and Quaternary Ammonium compounds.  This combination does NOT include any EPA listed hazardous chemicals.

According to the Material safety Data sheets for A.C.Q. treated lumber, the wood is “not expected to leech the preservative.”  During installation, other than regular woodworking safety procedures, there are no special safety precautions necessary for handling the product.

Pressure Treated Wood carries a lifetime warranty (non-transferable) against rotting or termite damage which causes the wood to be structurally unsafe.

Heritage Design supplies and installs hardware which is approved for use with A.C.Q. treated lumber.  These include hot-dipped galvanized, stainless steel, Z-Max brand (triple coated with zinc) and ceramic coated fasteners.  Aluminum fasteners and fittings are NOT recommended for use with A.C.Q. treated lumber.

We are interested in your safety and long-lasting enjoyment of the products we buy and sell at Heritage Design.  Check out the website of our suppliers for more information.

Taiga Forest Products
Surewood Forest Products

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Lots to come!

Posted on January 8, 2010 by letshaneexplain

Once spring comes expect to see a great selection of tutorials explaining how to do a wide variety of projects in your backyard.

-Shane

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